Konkordia Hut to Finsteraarhorn Hut
Rotsklimroute
Informatie
3,65 mi
2.111 ft
A high altitude glacial journey which will provide good acclimatisation
This is a short day that links one high hut to an even higher one. Whilst you can go straight from the Jungfraujoch to the Finsteraarhorn Hut in a day on foot, it is not recommended as the distance is large and the snow conditions are likely to be very poor. Better is to break the journey at the Konkordia Hut and to do this as a relatively short second day. In addition, spending a night at the Konkordia Hut (at 2850m) is a good way to start your acclimatisation - it's plenty high enough and the extra 200 vertical metres to the Finsteraarhorn Hut is enough to really impede your sleep on your first night in the mountains. Also, to spend the afternoon looking out over Konkordia and the huge glaciers all around is a great experience, as they are so impressive.
Get an early start to get the glacier in the best condition. Begin by descending the extensive ladders you climbed the night before- a sobering testament to glacial recession. In early season it may be snow covered glacier from the bottom of the ladders, but it is more commonly rubble, followed by dry ice. In the former case put on the rope at the foot of the ladders as there have been tragic crevasse accidents very close to the ladders.
For the majority of the season you may go quite a way up the Grüenegg Glacier before meeting the snow, where you put the rope on. The route is broadly up the L side of the glacier in ascent, taking you to the broad saddle of the Grüenegg Pass at 3279m. The view opposite of the highest peak in the area, the Finsteraarhorn, is inspiring to behold.
The descent down the far side is also gentle in angle but further than it appears and it becomes increasingly hard work as the day heats up and the altitude begins to become more apparent. Take care to skirt zones of crevasses and once below the snow line it should be fine to remove the rope, to avoid dragging it in the sharp rocks and the ice. Look for the track that leads up to the hut, taking to the rocks in the final part. Written by Jon Morgan
This is a short day that links one high hut to an even higher one. Whilst you can go straight from the Jungfraujoch to the Finsteraarhorn Hut in a day on foot, it is not recommended as the distance is large and the snow conditions are likely to be very poor. Better is to break the journey at the Konkordia Hut and to do this as a relatively short second day. In addition, spending a night at the Konkordia Hut (at 2850m) is a good way to start your acclimatisation - it's plenty high enough and the extra 200 vertical metres to the Finsteraarhorn Hut is enough to really impede your sleep on your first night in the mountains. Also, to spend the afternoon looking out over Konkordia and the huge glaciers all around is a great experience, as they are so impressive.
Get an early start to get the glacier in the best condition. Begin by descending the extensive ladders you climbed the night before- a sobering testament to glacial recession. In early season it may be snow covered glacier from the bottom of the ladders, but it is more commonly rubble, followed by dry ice. In the former case put on the rope at the foot of the ladders as there have been tragic crevasse accidents very close to the ladders.
For the majority of the season you may go quite a way up the Grüenegg Glacier before meeting the snow, where you put the rope on. The route is broadly up the L side of the glacier in ascent, taking you to the broad saddle of the Grüenegg Pass at 3279m. The view opposite of the highest peak in the area, the Finsteraarhorn, is inspiring to behold.
The descent down the far side is also gentle in angle but further than it appears and it becomes increasingly hard work as the day heats up and the altitude begins to become more apparent. Take care to skirt zones of crevasses and once below the snow line it should be fine to remove the rope, to avoid dragging it in the sharp rocks and the ice. Look for the track that leads up to the hut, taking to the rocks in the final part. Written by Jon Morgan
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