Morning Trail Run

Morning Ride

Early Green

Green Mountain

Climbing at G1 w/Stefan

I sent Patience Face (12a) this morning! I went up there with Bruno and Danny. We met at 6 a.m. and hiked up nice and slow. I tried to tell myself that there was no pressure. This was my first real redpoint attempt. I'd get in two tries this morning and might need 2 or 3 visits (4-6 more tries) before I sent it.

I fumbled the second clip for the first time and that took a bit more energy. I didn't dwell on that and got a good rest at the shoulder jam. I then climbed smoothly up through the pre-crux of the first five bolts to the no-hands rest. I rested a good while here and then sent the crux for only the second time and into the pod for another no-hands rest. I'd climbed the route clean from there to the top before, so I knew I had a good chance, but there are two more cruxy sections that are at my limit.

The next crux is just a big deadpoint and I hit it and moved smoothly up to the no-hands rest on the ramp. I could take a nap up here on my belly.

On the final crux, I missed my bump to the left first time, but had ample power to adjust it and then almost statically reach way left for the jug. The next two moves, normally deadpoints for me, were no static moves and I had tons of power left. I easily clipped the chains. Very excited about this.

This is only my third outdoors 5.12 and the first outside of Boulder Canyon. It took me 12 tries. Bruno worked his route, Ultrasaurus (13a), and he still has a number of trips before he gets it. Hence, I'll probably start to work The Shaft (12b) since it shares the first five bolts of Patience Face.

Danny TRed PF after I came down. He hadn't climbed in a month. He'd never even done a 5.11 outside and not many 5.10's, yet he onsighted up to the crux! This is definitely 5.11 climbing and Bruno thinks it is 11c. I'm was impressed. I know he's stronger than me, but, dang, it took me maybe 7 tries to get those opening moves clean. 

What a great morning! This was my third major climbing goal of the year (after climbing El Cap and the Diamond with Derek). Thanks to Bruno for all the help in getting this done!

Principais esportes

Bill Wright

Patience Pays!

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Morning Trail Run

Morning Ride

Early Green

Green Mountain

Climbing at G1 w/Stefan

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